Photo by JP Yim/Getty Images for TRAPSTAR
A few years ago, headlines on the Internet declared that the era of sagging was over. The youths were no longer waddling around with their pants at their thighs, clutching onto their waistbands to keep them up, for, unironically, aesthetic purposes. Sagging had always had a storied and troubled history, associated with incarceration before being adopted by rebellious subcultures and ‘90s hip-hop artists who considered it a form of self-expression; a sartorial middle finger to the system, if you will. But right when I thought I’d never see low-slung pants again, the trend unexpectedly returned to the high fashion runways this year, championed by a cohort of young Black designers. Is exposing our butts cool again?
This past fashion month, brands were no longer merely dabbling in the sag; they embraced it with an influx of low-slung waistbands and exposed boxers all over the runway. A styling choice that once unfairly criminalized its participants, mainly young Black men, sagging is now being remixed by Black designers for a new generation. Whether you decide to embrace the sagging agenda with open arms is entirely up to you, but if you’re down, we’ve compiled four of the most practical (as you can get) and tasteful ways to wear this trend, as showcased at both the men’s and women’s shows.
The classic sag, reinvented
Photo by Dia Dipasupil/Getty Images
At New York Fashion Week, KidSuper prodigy Daveed Baptiste proved the art of sagging is all in how you accessorize. There doesn’t seem to be much in his interpretation of the trend at first glance; the model is shirtless. But the designer pulls the look together with minimum props: the chunky belt, the liquor bottle, and a stack of chains. While I can’t guarantee that you’ll be able to enter every establishment without a top, the lesson here is that when in doubt, simple it out. Shirt? Optional. Belt? Non-negotiable.
Doubled-up boxers
Tops and jewelry aren’t the only pieces that can be layered. Trapstar London’s most recent showcase sent a slew of models down the runway with not just one, but two (!) pairs of boxers on, officially swapping the double denim waistband trend for plaid underwear times two. To replicate at home, you don’t have to overthink it. Slap on your go-to tank, jeans, and a couple of your boxers. Make sure they’re tiered so they get equal real estate on the bottom half of your outfit.
…Or try briefs instead
Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images
The sagging trend isn’t limited to one silhouette. At Jawara Alleyne’s London runway show, the designer put a twist on the sag: he sent down multiple looks that used briefs in place of the traditional baggy boxers. The key is to let your pants hit low enough to show all of your underwear, and the lower they fall, the better. For this, we highly recommend cinching the waistband (thighband?) with a belt.
Skirts can sag, too
Chopova Lowena
This past season Chopova Lowena reimagined her signature pleated skirt by adding a feminine twist to the traditionally masculine trend. At her London show this season, the skirts were pulled low and layered with ruffles underneath that read like bloomers. What made each layer stand out was the addition of a belt at every level, emphasizing that it’s not just pants that can be worn at the thighs — skirts can, too.
